![]() Next erect the awning as normal on the frame, and peg out firmly to ensure all the walls are taught. Then either paint or spray the roof section with proofing, and leave to dry. ![]() ![]() Instead peg the roof tightly to the ground at a slight angle to the caravan wall, ensuring that it is not in direct contact with the caravan wall, and tuck any spare wall canvas out of the way. On a dry day, fit the awning into the caravan awning rail, but do not use the frame at this stage. Ensure that any detergent is fully washed out with copious amounts of clean water, before allowing the material to completely dry. If you have an awning that needs reproofing, first ensure that it is thoroughly clean, and the use of detergent, and light scrubbing is acceptable as you are going to reproof anyway. Once you have chosen the product to use, the application method is as described for canvas. Generally petroleum treatments work better than water based ones on acrylic. In my experience, with normal use they tend to last many years without the need to reproof, however when the time comes, since the fluorocarbon used for the original treatment will repel silicone of some reproofing liquids, a floropolymer-based product is best suited to acrylic awnings. Reproofing agents can be either petroleum or water based, although I have found that the former tend to last better.Īwnings made of acrylic are waterproof because of chemical treatment, not the swelling of the fibres, and this can loose its effectiveness over time. A canvas awning is waterproof because the fibres swell when wet, however over time it will dry out, and reproofing has the effect of swelling the fibres again, while also adding a water repellent.
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